Yesterday i went surfing for the very first time. Conclusion..... I don't think surfing is my natural born talent. Oh well, maybe i'll discover it a little later.
I toted my friend's 7+ foot longboard into the ice cold waters of Newport Beach. After some brief instruction on the beach i was on my own. Now I have had some experience catching waves with a boogie board so i'm thinking to myself "just catch it like normal but just stand up on the board". No biggie, right? Wrong.
I wade into the numbing cold water and i can barely feel my feet. It doesn't take long to get used to the coldness but its a big initial shock. Long boards are great because its effortless to catch a wave. Its so buoyant that all you have to do is just point the board in the right direction and you're on your way. The high buoyancy allows the waves to push the board effortlessly. This a double edged sword. Since the waves push the board effortlessly, its also makes it very difficult to get out into the deeper surf. I spent most of my time just battling the waves while holding the 7+ foot long board. Now I'm a pretty decent swimmer but at 135lbs i don't even put a dent into the 5 foot waves.
Score at the end of the day
Pacific Ocean : 1
Jeff Wu: 0
Was it fun?
Oh yeah! No doubt. I was able to stand up twice and ride the wave towards shore.
For a brief second, i was surfing.
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